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1. Be still

No matter how good your blind is, or how well covered you are; if there's movement inside the blind, geese won't get close. Perhaps you are sitting still enough but your blind partners are putting their heads off to see the geese or take a couple of pictures, big mistake! If you (or your fellas) see the birds, the birds are seeing you, and it can be taken for sure, they don't wish to be near a human menace.

So, be quiet and still and move only when the shot is called. Move as less as possible to stay invisible and you will see the difference.

2. Deploy your decoys apart from each other

If you are a goose the last place where you wish to land is on a crowded area; especially if more than one bird are landing because with a wingspan between 4 and 6 feet each bird, space is mandatory to land safely, so if your decoys are too near one to another, the birds simply will find a less congested area.

Try to put your decoys in small groups (between 2 and 5 birds) separated between 4 and 10 feet from each other; this way you'll be mimicking geese behaviour pattern when landed, joined on small groups to feed, separated one from the other.

1. A pocket knife. This is a very valuable tool to build up a shelter, help you with your food and even to fabricate new tools, so a durable, reliable pocket knife will be your best friend if things turn wrong.

2. First aid kit. From simple cuts up to snake bites and even accidental gun injuries, you might face all kind of medical situations on the field, so be sure to include a first aid kit complete enough to deal with the commonest situations. On this regard, be sure to include gauze sponges, antiseptics, pain killers, antihistamines and a couple of adrenaline shots in case of severe allergic reactions; additionally you must keep on your first aid kit an extra supply of your regular medicines, just in case the trip extends more than expected.

There are three main types of points, each one specialized on a particular game:

Blunt points:

This type of point are flat instead of pointed and may be built on rubber or plastic. The aim is not to penetrate the skin but kill by shok, so they are flare out at the tip to increase the impact zone. Blunt points are intended for small games such as rabbits, squirrels and grouse.

Bowfishing Points:

These points are made up on steel and designed to catch fishes. It's strong tip is able to penetrate the hard scales of big fishes but the most important feature is the incorporation of strong, screw off or retractable barbs to retrieve your game, otherwise the badly hurt fish could go away to die far from you.

For a more experienced hunter, someone looking for a cheaper option or hunters who wish a bigger challenge, there's always the option of a traditional bow (longbow or recurve).

This type of bow is the simplest and lightest, so it's very practical to carry one on the bushes, however their use requires more muscular power and to be accurate enough it's necessary a lot of practice.

Traditional bows are not the easiest way to bow hunting but once you shoot down a game using a longbow you probably won't wish to use any other bow because of the self rewarding.

1. Safety First, so even before thinking to explore the bushes it's mandatory to complete a hunting safety course.

You don't wish to come back home hurt or dead, so when you are going out there with a gun, it's a good idea to know how to keep you and your hunting fellows safe.

2. Get a licence. There's no other way, the law is the law and you need a licence to hunt, otherwise you will face many troubles with the authorities.

3. Find a mentor. You may read a myriad of hunting books and guides but you won't be really learning until you go out with an experienced hunter. On your firsts trips you probably won't touch a gun, but that doesn't matters. The aim is to learn how to track, ambush and kill an animal; so keep your eyes wide open and don't miss a detail of what your mentor is doing; that's the best way to learn.